Making an Herb Infused Oil
Last week I wrote a post about juniper berries and using them to make an herb infused oil. I didn’t go into detail. This week I will start to cover it in depth. This will be in two parts.
In my practice I do use essential oils, however, I prefer to use infused oils most of the time. Making an herb infused oil gives you options. Essential oils use massive amounts of herb material. As a result, I have questions about the long-term sustainability of the practice. I think that there is hope but consumer demand can drive the market in unsustainable ways. Wherever possible I do not want to contribute to the loss of plant species. Using essential oils safely requires an in-depth knowledge, wisdom, and experience that I do not have. Many of them can cause serious side effects (allergic contact dermatitis, asthma, burns, etc.) and I choose to stay in my lane and work with those few that I know are safe and effective.
Choosing an Herb
Some herbs are classics for an herb infused oil. Calendula springs to mind immediately. Fantastic skin herb and a calendula infused herb oil would make a great base for any skin care product. Plantain, goldenrod, comfrey, and arnica are some other herbs with a long history of being made into infused oils. There are herbs that need to be used fresh but most of the time it is better to use dried herbs. The water content of fresh herb material can lead to the growth of mold and bacteria in your oil. Let’s focus on using dried herbs to begin.
Elderflowers
This summer I harvested elderflowers. I made tincture of some of the flowers and the rest I dried. I’ve been wanting to make an elderflower face cream. The first step in the process will be to make the herb infused oil. I am choosing elderflowers because they are astringent, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and there is evidence that they provide protection from the sun. Elderflower is also a good choice because I know I can get elderflower hydrosol and face cream recipes use hydrosols. This is an opportunity to double up the elderflower by using both the herb infused oil and the hydrosol. I might infuse the oil twice to make it more healing to my skin.
Choosing a Carrier Oil
I know what herb I want to use. Which carrier oil? 3 factors to consider in choosing your oil.
1. What do you want to use the oil for?
For years I made all my herb infused oils with olive oil. It’s stable (does not go rancid easily), is readily available, and is cost effective. If I wanted a calendula infused herb oil to use in salves – I use olive oil. I now make more products to sell and the products are skincare based. For the face cream I want to use different oils to increase the potency of my products. The skin on the face and the skin on the knees are not the same.
2. Cost
This is a project I haven’t previously tried. It will be my first ever face cream. Do I want experiment with an expensive oil and end up throwing the whole thing in the trash?
For reference, I did a quick price check on some common carrier oils. All organic and all cold pressed.
Argan $0.16 per ml Sweet Almond $0.04 per ml Olive oil $0.02 per ml
Rosehip Seed $0.23 per ml Jojoba $0.09 per ml Sunflower $.02 per ml
3. Specific qualities of each oil.
Examples
Argan oil – High in vitamin E. It absorbs easily into the skin and is great for dry and mature skin. Improves the elasticity of the skin and non-comedogenic. It does have a strong aroma.
Sweet Almond – Odourless and it penetrates the skin. High in vitamin and vitamin E. Soothes skin irritation and is great for all skin types but especially for sensitive skin. Helps to protect the skin from sun damage.
Jojoba – Stable, does not go rancid. This is because it is not an oil but rather a type of wax. It is a close match to the natural sebum of the skin and is excellent for oily skin or people prone to breakouts. Antibacterial and antifungal. Light and non-greasy it absorbs quickly into the skin.
Rosehip – Pressed from the seeds within a rosehip. High in vitamin C. Helps to increase the regeneration of skin cells and is excellent in helping to heal and prevent scarring. Improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Reduces redness and irritation.
Sunflower – A light oil and easily absorbed. High in vitamin E and non-comedogenic. Is a great emulsifier. Little scent. Soothes irritated skin and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial.
Choices
There are many other oils available. This is by no means a definitive list. For instance, if I had the money a simple cream made with rosehip seed oil would probably be killer. I love that oil. Of course, it would cost over $54 for the oil alone. That is before I bought the other items needed.
Reading over the list I think I will use a combo of sunflower and jojoba oil. A good combination of a more basic workhorse oil and an extra special delicious oil.
Next week – we have the herb, and we have the oil. What to do next. Hint – it involves a crockpot.
